Sunday, July 31, 2011

Buddha, Sushi and Sauerkraut…

This must be the weekend travelogue. I am sitting here and a literal flood of memories are coming in about all these places which meant something to visit, for reasons other than just being there; Japan was one such place. Had the privilege to go there several times, but this first time in particular was special (so was the red district karaoke during my next visit, but… we’ll leave that one alone for now)
As an island nation, Japan is a big country; big in history and achievements. Very rigid in its cultural hierarchy but, by virtue of being physically a relatively small island, the concept of inward looking has become an ingrained part of the culture and of the upbringing of most people. The space around you on the physical plane is very restricted; there are just too many people sharing the same space. So, the alternate option is to restrict access to the interior space, and to meditation in a little deeper level than that which we normally attain in the west. Yes, this is an oversimplified version of the so called “inscrutability” of the Japanese character. But in day to day activities and relations, I can attest that once you, as an individual, get past the outside wall of another individual there can be a warm friendship. Perhaps not as effusive as we may be accustomed to, but a warm and caring relationship just the same.

On this particular trip, I was going to Kyoto and Osaka, Japan. My Richland High School friends who read this, may remember that Kyoto High School was our sister school in Japan. This was one reason to look forward to this trip. Another reason was that I would actually be living for two weeks in a totally Japanese environment, with the family of our Japanese Board Representative, a true gentle soul. They spoke some English and I did speak "some-less" Japanese; a language not easy to learn but, surprisingly, not difficult to sound out.  We were to visit a number of companies in Osaka and Kyoto, but our down time would be spent in Kobe, a bay side city near Osaka, where this couple had a villa that had been in Sato-San's family for many generations. There were two sides to Kobe: the traditional village and the modern city. We would be within the traditional village and this was something to look forward to. I arrived in Tokyo and took the bullet train to Osaka, where Sato-San was waiting for me. We drove to Kobe, which was “cross bay” and eventually made it to his home. It was just he and his wife; both in their late 60’s but full of life and of curiosity; this manner of greeting each minute of each day certainly keeps one young.  We talked about many things, none of them business related; I told them about the school relationship, and my intense curiosity about the Japanese culture; actually, the first paragraph above came pretty much from his assessments.

We did do our public relations work, which was the gist of this trip; in fact, we did net new members as a result, and that was the intended goal... And Folks... Now that we have taken care of the business end, let’s talk about more interesting things.  During our free time, and Sato-San was smart enough to program enough of this, I had the opportunity to visit several important and/or historical places. In Osaka, we visited the Osaka Castle, which dates originally back to the Shogunate of the early1300’s (remember ninjas?... no, not the turtles… The real ones which pretty much started here) There is one special feature of this castle and those are the cherry tree gardens. I saw them when they were already waning a bit … I could only imagine what they could be in full bloom!!! It would be like walking inside a cherry white cloud… the trees in our own capital city came as a gift from this garden. We also visited the flea market and, with Sato San’s help, I was able to bargain down some presents for my family back home; mostly pure silk shirts and dresses. Not too shabby!
                                                        Osaka Castle Entrance

There were two stops which truly impressed me and both were in Kobe. The first one was the sitting Buddha. Remember: India’s Buddha is skinny; Japan’s is somewhat rounder. But Buddha, all the same…  If you remember some other entry a while back, I respect and appreciate all religions. In the end, I think there is only one Supreme Being and you may call him/her differently than I do; this does not lessen either one. Anyway… we went to visit the Buddha and I was really impressed. I felt, as I had felt in India while in the presence of an also well visited Buddha, a very strong presence, all to the good. Almost like all those who pass by leave a little good energy behind. We stood there for a while, Sato San did his prayers and I did my own, in my own way. When I turned away to leave, I felt a peace which I had not felt in a while; something to ponder for I still feel it when I put my mind to it.

One night, early on during my visit, Sato San said: -“Today we are going to a special restaurant” then, he asked –“have you had sushi yet?” This was a question I had been dreading for I was not very good with the idea of raw fish. Yet… when in Rome… They took me to an ancient family inn, on the outskirts of Kobe. We were expected and, on arrival, our shoes were taken and sandals replaced them. The attending ladies, all dressed in beautiful traditional kimonos, brought us to an 8 tatami room, a large one by their standards (the measure of a traditional room is according to how many open tatamis, the roll which serves as a bed, fit in) and we sat at what seemed to be a “picnic” table: A one piece, thick, good sized table which seemed to have an ages old patina, very smooth and with those dips and slight undulations which only time and constant use can bring.  As we talked, Sato-San asked me: how old do you think this table is? Guessing by the fact I knew the Inn had been open for several generations, I said: -“I guess about 200 years”.  He smiled and said: -“make that about 650 years and you will be a lot closer”. I was really impressed; awed might be a better word; then, I realized that I was enjoying a culture where older things are respected and guarded. We did enjoy a full 6 course dinner which saw me eat all different types of raw and cooked marine denizens. And it was truly great; subtle aromas and tastes, nothing sharp or screaming “Here I AM!!” Actually, during the time of my two week visit my food was almost totally Japanese and it was truly enjoyed.

On my last Saturday we were walking along the beach and we stopped to have lunch at a German restaurant, where we had German fare at its best. Yet, I felt extremely full and even overly “greased”; my two week Japanese diet had really leveled my grease content and requirements. The day ended in a good sake brindis and next morning I started to make my way back to the States, a very happy and much more enlightened person, especially when it came to the Japanese culture.

Sadly, this note ends in a not so happy comment. A few years later, there was a major earthquake in this part of Japan and the traditional Village of Kobe was pretty much destroyed. The beach villa I had known and both Sato-San and his wife passed on from this life on to the next plane. Blessed be they!

Japan… a culture which is different than ours yet, not that different.

Be Well… Be Back!!                      Buddha Statue, Kobe                                   

Temple Gardens; Kyoto


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